Zagreb

We certainly felt like we were rolling through the Iron Curtain as we entered Zagreb from the south: identical towering grey concrete skyscrapers of apartment buildings from the Cold War era dotted the outskirts of the city, with crumbling facades and broken sidewalks between them. There was graffiti everywhere, so much that I think Zagreb may pip Athens for the most graffitied city I’ve ever visited. But as we rolled into the city center the charming old town revealed itself, with beautiful architecture and manicured parks scattered throughout the business district. We only planned for a couple of nights in Croatia’s capital, had we not had bookings at our next destination (Ljubljana) I think we would have stayed longer. I cannot say enough good things about Zagreb, a wonderfully laid back city with more dining options than one can poke a stick at (the city of 800,000 has more than 4,500 cafes, bars and restaurants). Our apartment on Ulica Kneza Mislava allowed us to explore everywhere on foot, from the picturesque central Park Josipa Jurja Strossmayera with museums and beautiful apartment buildings lining its edges, to the lively old town streets and alleyways on the western edge of the Dolac Market. On one of our foot-borne journeys around the city we happened upon a Zagreb gas lamp lighter, which was quite the treat: the old town of the city is lit at night by over 200 traditional gas-powered street lamps which need to be manually lit each afternoon. Zagreb is one of only three European cities that still use traditional gas lamps.

Saint Mark’s Church in the old town was a notable landmark we all enjoyed visiting, the scale of its mosaic roof unlike anything I’d seen before. Unfortunately we couldn’t go inside due to some politically-motivated threats made against the government last year – a lot of the historic landmarks in Zagreb were cordoned off as a result – but the exterior was memorable, all the same. Zagrebačka Katedrala was also an incredibly impressive structure towering over the Dolac Market and central old town. The cathedral has been severely damaged by a number of earthquakes during its 900 year history, the most notable the 1880 Zagreb earthquake, which damaged multiple portions of the structure beyond repair. It was left in a state of disrepair during the Yugoslavian communist era but has seen a significant period of reconstruction during recent years. Some fun plaques outside the main entrance that passed as a history lesson for the kids’ homework for the afternoon!

With so many cafes, bars and restaurants in Zagreb we were a little overloaded with choice! Our dinner at Bistro Fotic just outside the old town was exceptional – another good New York Times recommendation – the salted anchovies on their menu that we first discovered in Split were phenomenal. Also fun to tase some wines from northern Croatia at Fotic, with clones similar to those grown in California rather than the endemic varietals we’d enjoyed along the Dalmatian Coast. Pivnica Medvedgrad brewery in the old town was also a spot worth a mention, we found ourselves watching the world go by with a couple of steins there on two afternoons, so much hustle and bustle at every hour of the day along Ulica Tkalčićeva and Ulica Radićeva there in the old town. Everything from fine dining to cheap street food on those two streets… On one of our walks through the old town we also noted a jam packed Sri Lankan restaurant with what looked to be delectable far, Lisa and I suggesting to each other that we should make sure to have a meal there before departing Zagreb. My camera was at home that night, but the food at Curry Bowl was so fun: the waiter was astonished that Max downed the entire bowl of tuna curry he ordered – surprised at both the appetite wielded by the little guy and the fact an eight year old’s palate enjoyed the dish – and the kotthu that Lisa and I shared was like nothing we’d ever eaten. The dish was a ball of vegetables with cheese and meat mixed in, served with gravy in a side dish, with which we dowsed each mouthful. Absolutely delicious!

The Dolac Market – located between the cathedral and old town – was also a highlight for all of us. Beautiful fruits and vegetables from the northern region of Croatia covered the expansive upper section of the market, with cheese and meat halls underneath the outdoor fruit and vegetable plaza. Such amazing produce, everything we purchased was ripe to perfection. The dried figs were some of the best I’ve tasted, maybe even better than those Lisa and I enjoyed in Turkey back in 2009. The market and all its offerings had both Lisa and I thinking about all the similarities with the Adelaide Central Market. We stocked up on our fruit supplies and bought breakfast savories at Pekara Dubravica, enjoying them in the sun on the tables around Trg Bana Josipa Jelačića. A fun way to spend our last morning in town.

As I noted earlier in the post, I can’t say enough good things about Zagreb. A wonderful city with so much to offer: beautiful architecture, welcoming locals and such a culinary adventure at all the city’s eateries. One of the few places so far where I think we could have done with another day or two… We’ll have to return sometime!