The Algarve

Our luck chasing the sun finally ran our after our days on the Alentejo and Vicentina Coasts: everywhere on the Iberian Peninsula had rain the forecast following what looked to be our final days on the beach for a while around Almograve. There was nowhere to run. We’d had exceptionally good fortune with the rain since leaving California back in July, only having to deal with some mildly unfortunate weather in Dubrovnik, Herbriggen, Burgundy and Innsbruck. But for our time in the Algarve – Portugal’s southernmost region – we endured rain, rain and more rain. It wasn’t like the storms we’d all become used to in northern California – where the heavens open and the world stops for a few days – but more of a prolonged mist that didn’t seem to let up. Fortunately we weathered the storm in a very comfortable apartment in the rural village of Bensafrim a stone’s throw from the resort city of Lagos, enjoying a Shrek marathon over the period of a few days and catching up on all those things that get put off when the sun’s shining.

As with our digs in Almograve on the Alentejo Coast, Bensafrim – population 2004 – was the kind of place where everyone knew everyone. There was one main cobblestoned street in town, on which there was a minimart and a couple of cafes. There was also a pizza joint at the western end of town, from which we grabbed some takeaway one night. We strolled to the restaurant of Maria Da Gloria Arsenio Da Conceição Claudio Rodrigues for dinner one night, a hundred meters or so from the front door of our well-equipped apartment tucked into the back of one of the minimarts. When we opened the door to the six table establishment the handful of gents inside – each with their own table – all stopped talking to give us a look up and down, after which ensued a silent staring game between them to determine which one was going to join forces with another to free up a table for the four of us. The portly owner – who rose from his own table littered with at least 10 empty Super Bocks – was exceptionally welcoming and did his best to ask in English if we wanted to food and, if so, whether we wanted fish or chicken. But to be honest, I think he’d have had trouble conversing in Portuguese given his state, let alone English. The old bloke could hardly even stand up, I almost suggested to him that he take off his glasses because his eyes were having trouble focusing. I have a feeling that each of the fellows inMaria Da Gloria Arsenio Da Conceição Claudio Rodrigues that night spend more time drinking Super Bocks in there than they do at home with their wives. Anyway, the chicken and fish were both incredibly delicious: the chicken a traditional Portuguese casserole served with chicken fat rice and fries, while the fish was a whole Portuguese Dorado (which is a snapper) served with roast vegetables. Lisa was very pumped on the fish, the way it was served was something she’d been trying to hunt down since we left France. As the beers were consumed the volume of yelling across the restaurant increased throughout the evening, none of us had any idea what was being said but it sure was entertaining. Fortunately we managed to leave before anyone fell off their chair.

We managed to time one break in the weather with a drive to the coast east of Lagos to see the famous rocks above Praia da Marinha and the natural arches of Arcos Naturais. It was very reminiscent of the Great Ocean Road and world famous Twelve Apostles, just not quite as grand. The Percurso dos Sete Vales Suspensos hiking trail traversing the clifftops along the coast in the area of Arcos Naturais would have been a great route to explore if the weather had cooperated, but we’ll have to save that one for next time. The cavernous holes carved into the limestone over the years by the ocean where quite a treat to watch as the powerful waves rolled in.

Portugal’s main wine regions are situated in the central and northern portions of the country, but there were a number of producers across the Algarve region growing varietals suited to the dry climate found in the south. Quinta do Francês Winery was a small operation run by a husband and wife team, a great spot to while away the time during the less-than-favorable weather. I think the proprietor who tasted Lisa through the winery’s offerings was quite excited to have a winemaker visiting, when we were done in the tasting room she locked up everything and put the closed sign on the door so she could show us through the winery and cellar!

Lagos is a resort city on the southern coast of the Algarve, known for its beaches and golf courses. It marks the beginning of a stretch of coastline extending to Spain that is full of resort towns boasting theme parks and ATV tours, not our typical jam. The old town of Lagos was quite charming, however, with its whitewashed buildings lining narrow cobblestoned streets. We strolled around for a while before all getting completely drenched by a downpour, a walking tour of Lagos wasn’t meant to be this time around.